Whenever I meet someone new and they find out I am a car guy I usually get asked the typical 21 questions – Do you know of a good place where I can get an oil change near me? Do you get your oil change done at Midas? Where can I get a cheap oil change? And, do you shop at Costco? Would you let Costco change your oil?
My typical answer to them is that I do my own oil changes. Both the cheapest and fastest oil changes are the ones you do yourself. It’s a simple task especially on older vehicles. So let me walk you through on how to change your own oil. At the end of this guide I will answer frequently asked questions that come up during an oil change.
Tools needed:
 | Car ramps |
 | 2 pairs of wheel chocks (for front and rear of tires) |
 | Oil of your choice |
 | Oil Filter (I prefer the WIX Filters myself) |
 | Basic ratchet set / wrench set so you can undo your oil plug |
 | Oil filter wrench |
 | Fluid catch container (a bucket or preferably a dedicated oil bucket with a spout) |
 | Funnel (optional but makes pouring in your new oil easier sometimes) |
| XXXX | A place to take your oil that won’t harm the environment – Please, please, please do not dump your oil in the garbage or down the sewer system. It harms all of our health and is illegal. In my last step I’ll highlight areas you can go safely dispose of your oil and filter. |
I don’t get any commission on any of the links above with the exception of the Amsoil link and that commission comes at no extra cost to you. I have linked to Harbor Freight simply because I find them to be a great place for beginner tools at a very cost friendly price.
LIFTING YOUR VEHICLE
You need to get your vehicle onto a flat level surface. Using car ramps is easiest for beginners as they do not come with all of the dangers a jack and jackstands can. Drive your vehicle up onto the ramps, put the vehicle in park and set the hand brake. Set your chocks behind your rear tires both at the front of the wheel and back so that the car cannot roll in any direction.
| ****CAUTION**** IF USING A JACK INSTEAD OF JACKSTANDS, DO NOT GET UNDER A VEHICLE BEING HELD UP BY ONLY A JACK. HYDRAULICS OF JACKS HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO FAIL/ SLIP FROM UNDER THE VEHICLE WHICH CAN RESULT IN DEATH/SERIOUS INJURY. WORK SAFELY. |
LOCATE YOUR DRAIN PLUG
Go under your vehicle with your ratchet, socket and catch pan. Locate the drain plug which will be on your oil pan – your pan is directly attached to the bottom of your motor so you can’t miss it. Undo the plug and expect liquid to come pouring out – aka keep your face clear and let it fill up your catch pan.
Depending on your vehicle and how many quarts/liters of oil it takes, make sure your catch container can hold the same. Let the old fluid pour out until it stops and then put your drain plug back in. Typically these take about 15-20ft/lbs of torque. In other words they are to be “snugged” up tight not reefed on with all your body weight tight. Move over to your filter and use your special oil filter wrench to take this off – again, let the liquid pour into the bucket and empty your filter in there as well.
If you are not sure where your drain plug is located, a forum for your dedicated car is usually the best place to ask. If you have a Camaro you can visit www.camarov6.com and ask your questions there.
PREPARE YOUR NEW FILTER BEFORE INSTALL
Now that all your old lubricant is out, you will need to take your new filter and dab your finger in some clean oil and run it around the rubber gasket of your filter before you screw it into place. This helps seal the filter to the engine block. Tighten your filter nice and snug using your hands only. You can now come out from under the car.
FILL YOUR ENGINE WITH NEW MOTOR OIL
Unscrew your oil cap as indicated in the photo below and put your clean funnel into place if you are using one. Fill your vehicle up with the factory determined amount of fluid. I.e if your car asks for 5 quarts put 5 quarts in. I recommend filling the car up minus a half quart. Start the car up and back it down the ramp to check for the correct level of oil in the motor. It is better to have a little bit less than too much as you can always add a little more lubricant when the car is level. Levels can be checked on your dip stick.
Since your new fluid is nice and clean it may be harder to read. To help you can look at your cross hatch marks on your dip stick then rotate the stick 180* in your hand to look at where the oil is sitting on the back side of the stick as well. If you still have a hard time reading it use your finger to feel where the oil is on the stick in your cross hatch area. The cross hatch area is the area on your dip stick between 2 points where you are determined to have the correct level of fluid, you don’t want to have more and you don’t want less.
SAFELY DISPOSE OF YOUR OIL AT A HAZARDOUS WASTE FACILITY
I generally dump my old fluid back into the container where my new oil just came from. You can put the empty filter in a bag and put it all together. There are generally a few options where you can take the oil that are safe for disposal. Some cities have Hazardous Waste Facilities with Taxi’s that will come and pick up your old fluid from you if you cannot drop it off. If you live in the Toronto area you can visit 311’s household hazardous waste site and have your oil picked up for free. Most cities will have something like this or dedicated sites you can take your oil to. I know some of the Jiffy Lube’s in my area also take old oil at no charge. A quick Google search of your area for household hazardous waste disposal should give you a safe and responsible way to eliminate your old fluid.
Don’t forget to wash your hands up and go for a drive – remember, if you felt this guide was helpful, share it on Facebook / Twitter / Pinterest and other sites to help more people like you!
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q: How do I know what type of oil to use in my car?
A: Typically most cars will tell you on the oil cap on in the engine bay. Your owners manual will also specify the weight of oil to use (5w30, 10w30, etc) as well as if the car calls for synthetic or conventional motor oil. If those aren’t handy, this is a great resource for looking up what type of oil is for your car.
Q: What is the best recommended oil to buy for my car?
A: We created an oil comparison chart for you. My personal preference is synthetic.
Q: If my car takes regular oil is it safe to run synthetic oil?
A: Absolutely. Running synthetic oil in a conventional oil motor will not harm it. However, running conventional oil in a motor that calls for synthetic can cause problems.
Q: What does Viscosity index, pour point and all that fancy terminology mean?
A: We built a little oil definition page to act as your dictionary.
Q: Is synthetic oil really worth it? I pay more for it than the regular stuff?
A: It may cost more, but you can extend your oil change intervals by more than 62%. It also has higher pour points for those in cold weather climates and a higher wear protection. If your manufacturer doesn’t call for it then it becomes a personal preference. Do the math as far as cost savings and see what is right for your pocket book.